Concrete, tile, paint, flooring, roofing and more — over twenty calculators in all, each worked out the way a contractor would, so you never over-buy, under-buy, or get talked into extras at the store.
Concrete is a volume. Tile is a laying pattern plus a weight problem. Paint is wall perimeter, not floor area. A remodel budget is a rate per square foot. Each tool below uses the method that matches how the material is actually installed.
For slabs, patios, driveways and footings. Prices the job as bags or a ready-mix truck — and if you mix on site instead, it also breaks the volume down into cement, sand and aggregate.
Method: Volume · L × W × thickness ÷ 27 = cubic yards · site mix at dry volume × 1.54Mixing on site? The result panel gives cement in 94 lb bags, sand and aggregate in tons and cubic yards for the ratio above. Buying bagged mix or ready-mix instead? Those numbers are there too — compare all three.
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Enter the length, width and thickness of the pour. The calculator multiplies them into a volume, adds your waste allowance, and converts to cubic yards — then prices the same volume two ways: 80 lb and 60 lb bags at 0.60 and 0.45 cu ft per bag, versus a ready-mix truck at your per-yard price, so the cheaper route for your exact slab is obvious. Mixing on site is the third route: dry materials take about 1.54× the finished wet volume, split by your chosen ratio — cement is counted in 94 lb bags (1 bag ≈ 1 cu ft), sand and aggregate in tons and cubic yards.
About 45 bags. One 80 lb bag yields roughly 0.60 cu ft of mixed concrete, and a cubic yard is 27 cu ft.
Four inches is standard for cars and light trucks; go to 6 inches for heavy vehicles, RVs or weak soil.
Yes — the waste slider adds your chosen allowance (10% by default) before converting to yards and bags, because running short mid-pour is the expensive mistake.
For a standard 1:2:3 mix, one cubic yard of finished concrete takes about 7 bags (94 lb) of cement, roughly 0.5 cu yd of sand and 0.75 cu yd of aggregate — dry materials total about 1.54 times the wet volume. Pick your ratio in the calculator and it works out the exact quantities for your slab.
For floors, showers and kitchen backsplashes. Tile is not just area ÷ tile size: the laying pattern changes waste, the joints change mortar and grout, the cement-sand mortar bed under the tile has its own cement and sand quantities, wet areas need waterproofing — and the tiles themselves have serious weight. All of it is calculated here.
Method: Pattern waste + mortar bed (standard default 1:5 cement : sand, ANSI A108.1A) + waterproofing for wet areas + weight by tile typeDefaults here are the published standards, and every one of them can be changed: thinset with no bed is the default installation. If your floor needs a mortar bed, TCNA / ANSI A108 put bed thickness at 1¼″–2″ (1¼″ nominal) and ANSI A108.1A sets the standard flat-floor mix at 1:5 cement : sand by volume (1:4 for shower receptors; 1:4–1:6 is the accepted range) — pick your thickness and mix and cement (94 lb bags; 1 bag ≈ 1 cu ft) and sand (cu yd / tons) appear in the results. Quantities use the standard mortar dry-volume factor ×1.33. Waterproofing area = the tiled area plus the wall turn-up around the room perimeter; liquid coverage uses the RedGard data-sheet rate (TDS-104: 110 sq ft/gal per coat, two coats ≈ 55 sq ft/gal).
How to adjust: pick the pattern first and waste follows automatically. If the room is out of square or has many corners, nudge it up 2–5 points. Weight is estimated from the tile type you select — always confirm with the figure printed on the box.
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Reserved for the contractor quote form — name, phone and ZIP, matched with up to three local pros. For now the full form lives in Get Quotes below; this spot is held for the in-result version. Placeholder only — nothing is sent from here yet.
Measure the area, choose your tile size, then — critically — choose the laying pattern, because pattern sets the waste: 10% straight, 12% running bond, 15% diagonal, 20% herringbone. The calculator divides area by tile size with that waste included, rounds up to whole boxes, and then works out the layers underneath and over the substrate. Thinset alone is the default; if you add a mortar bed, its defaults are the published standards — thickness in the TCNA / ANSI A108 range of 1¼″–2″ and the ANSI A108.1A standard flat-floor mix of 1 part cement to 5 parts sand by volume (1:4–1:6 accepted), with dry materials at the standard mortar factor of ×1.33 over the finished bed volume. Cement comes out in 94 lb bags, sand in cubic yards and tons, and both defaults can be changed in the controls. Waterproofing for wet areas is figured on the tiled area plus the wall turn-up you choose — liquid membrane at the manufacturer's data-sheet rate of about 55 sq ft per gallon over two coats, sheet membrane with 10% added for laps. Finally it weighs the job: tile weight from the material you pick, plus thinset and grout from the joint width, the bed and the membrane, giving total carry weight and finished floor load per sq ft.
It depends on the pattern, not a single rule: about 10% for straight lay, 12% offset, 15% diagonal and 20% herringbone. The calculator sets it from the pattern you choose.
Because tile is heavy — porcelain typically runs 3–6 lb per sq ft before thinset and grout. Total weight decides delivery, vehicle trips and whether an upstairs floor can take it.
Yes. Shade and caliber vary slightly between production lots, so buy every box from one lot and keep a spare box for repairs.
Only if the floor gets a mortar bed — thinset on a flat slab or backer board needs none, and that is this calculator's default. For a bed, the published standards are: thickness 1¼″–2″ (TCNA / ANSI A108) and a mix of 1:5 cement : sand by volume for flat floors (ANSI A108.1A; 1:4 for shower receptors). At those defaults, a 1¼″ bed over 96 sq ft takes about 3 bags (94 lb) of cement and about 0.41 cu yd (0.55 tons) of sand. Both the thickness and the mix are defaults you can change in the calculator.
In wet areas, yes — tile and grout are not waterproof by themselves. A liquid-applied membrane (two coats, about 55 sq ft per gallon at the RedGard data-sheet rate) or a bonded sheet membrane goes over the substrate and turns up the walls — 6 inches around a bathroom floor, full height in a shower — before any tile is laid. Dry rooms do not need it, so waterproofing is off by default here.
Calculated from true wall area — perimeter times ceiling height, minus doors and windows, times the number of coats. One gallon covers ≈ 350 sq ft per coat.
Method: Walls · (L + W) × 2 × height − doors/windows, ÷ 350 × coatsPartner-store links for the exact items counted above — the bags, rolls and boxes in your result — will appear in this spot once our retailer accounts are live. Until then, copy your result and take the list to any supplier: every count on this page is store-neutral. How partner links work is set out in the affiliate disclosure.
Paint covers walls, not floors, so this calculator works from the room's perimeter: (length + width) × 2 × ceiling height, minus 21 sq ft per door and 15 sq ft per window, plus the ceiling if you include it. Total paintable area is divided by 350 sq ft per gallon and multiplied by your number of coats.
About 350 sq ft per coat on smooth, primed walls. Rough or unprimed surfaces drink more — closer to 250–300 sq ft.
No, and deliberately so: primer is listed separately when walls are bare drywall, because it is a different product at a different price.
Two is the professional standard for even color, especially over a different color. One coat only works for same-color refreshes with quality paint.
For painting a house exterior — a different job from a room. The area is the outside walls plus the gable triangles, minus doors and windows, and exterior work almost always needs its own primer coat on bare or weathered siding, counted separately here.
Method: Walls + gables · perimeter × height + width × gable peak − openings, ÷ 350 × coats; primer separateWall height is eave height for one story, both floors for two. Gables are figured as two triangles on the width ends, same as the Siding calculator. Trim, soffit and fascia are usually a separate accent color — budget roughly one extra gallon per 400 sq ft of wall if you are painting them to match.
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Exterior paint is measured on the outside of the house: perimeter × wall height for the walls, plus the two gable triangles (width × peak height), minus 21 sq ft per door and 15 sq ft per window. At roughly 350 sq ft per gallon per coat, two coats is the professional standard outside — sun and weather punish a single thin coat. Primer is a separate line, not folded into the paint: bare wood, new fiber cement and drastic color changes all need it, and it is a cheaper product doing a different job.
The area is different — outside walls plus gables, not room walls — and the product is different: exterior paint is formulated for UV and weather, and almost always goes over a dedicated primer coat on bare or weathered siding. That is why this is its own calculator.
On bare wood, new fiber cement, chalky old paint or a strong color change, yes — it is what makes the finish coats stick and age evenly. Over sound paint in the same color, a quality paint-and-primer can skip it; the checkbox lets you count it either way.
Yes, at the standard estimating sizes used here — 21 sq ft per door, 15 per window. Large glass walls or garage doors are worth measuring and deducting exactly.
A realistic range for the U.S. market — not a contractor quote. Use it to sanity-check any quote you receive.
Method: Rate · $/sq ft × area × tier × regional factorPartner-store links for the exact items counted above — the bags, rolls and boxes in your result — will appear in this spot once our retailer accounts are live. Until then, copy your result and take the list to any supplier: every count on this page is store-neutral. How partner links work is set out in the affiliate disclosure.
Pick the project type and the estimator applies a typical U.S. cost per square foot — $275 for kitchens, $380 for bathrooms, $14 for flooring, $95 for basement finishing, $55 for decks — then adjusts it by finish tier and regional cost, and splits the midpoint into labor, materials and permits/contingency so you can compare a real quote line by line.
It is a sanity range, not a quote. It catches bids that are wildly low (something is excluded) or wildly high (ask for itemization) — the two conversations that save homeowners the most money.
Structural repairs, moving load-bearing walls, permit fees in high-cost cities, and surprises hiding inside walls. The 20% permits/contingency slice is there for exactly those.
Per square foot, yes: bathrooms pack plumbing, waterproofing, tile and fixtures into very few square feet. Total kitchen budgets are still usually larger.
For hardwood, laminate and luxury vinyl plank. Flooring is sold by the box, and every box covers a fixed area — so the real question is how many whole boxes to buy, plus underlayment.
Method: Coverage · (area + waste) ÷ sq ft per box, rounded up to whole boxesAlways buy all boxes from the same production lot (dye lot), and keep one spare box for future repairs — matching a discontinued floor later is nearly impossible.
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Flooring is sold by the box, and each box covers a fixed area printed on the carton. The calculator takes room area, adds waste for your installation type — 8% for LVP, 10% for straight hardwood or laminate, 15% for diagonal or herringbone — and divides by the box coverage, rounding up to whole boxes, then adds underlayment rolls if you need them.
About 10% for straight installations, 8% for click-lock LVP, and 15% for diagonal or herringbone patterns, which cut far more boards.
Floors get discontinued. One spare box stored flat lets you repair a damaged section years later with an exact match.
Yes, if you select it: rolls of 100 sq ft, rounded up. Planks with pre-attached pad do not need it — select No.
For finishing a room, basement or garage. Drywall is a sheet count — wall and ceiling area divided by sheet size — plus the screws, joint compound and tape it takes to finish it.
Method: Sheets · (wall + ceiling area) ÷ sheet size, then finishing materials12-ft sheets mean fewer seams to finish but need two people and a clear path into the room. This estimate assumes roughly 5% extra for cuts and mistakes.
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Drywall is counted in sheets: wall area (perimeter × ceiling height) plus the ceiling if included, divided by sheet size — 32 sq ft for 4x8, 48 for 4x12 — with 5% added for cuts. Finishing materials follow from the area: roughly 32 screws per sheet, a 4.5-gallon bucket of joint compound per 350 sq ft, and a 250 ft tape roll per 90 sq ft.
4x12 sheets mean fewer seams to tape and finish, but they are heavy, awkward, and need a clear path into the room. Most DIYers should use 4x8.
About 32 — spaced 12 inches apart on ceilings and 16 on walls is the common pattern this calculator assumes.
Yes: joint compound buckets and tape rolls are estimated alongside the sheets, because a sheet count alone does not finish a room.
For garden beds and planting areas. Mulch is a depth problem: area times depth gives volume — then the question is bags vs. bulk delivery. (Stone has its own calculator — see Gravel.)
Method: Depth volume · area × depth ÷ 27 = cu yd, then bags vs. bulkRule of thumb: above roughly 1 cubic yard, bulk delivery almost always beats bags — and saves dozens of trips with a wheelbarrow.
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Mulch is ordered by volume: area times depth. The calculator converts your bed's length and width and your chosen depth (3 inches is standard for mulch) into cubic feet, then cubic yards, and prices it both ways — individual 2 cu ft bags versus bulk by the yard — because the better buy flips at about one cubic yard.
About 3 inches for weed suppression and moisture retention. Much deeper can suffocate roots; much thinner does neither job.
At roughly one cubic yard and up. Below that, delivery fees erase the saving; above it, bags cost more and mean dozens of trips.
Yes — figure on it compacting 10–20% in the first season, which is why a 3-inch fresh layer ends up closer to 2.5 inches.
For re-roofing estimates. A sloped roof is bigger than the house footprint — the pitch multiplier corrects for that. Roofing is measured in “squares” of 100 sq ft, and shingles come in bundles, 3 to a square. The waterproofing layer is counted too: felt or synthetic underlayment over the whole deck, plus the self-adhesive ice & water shield that seals the eaves — figured from the house footprint, the pitch and how far up the roof it runs.
Method: Pitch · footprint × pitch factor ÷ 100 = squares; 3 bundles per square · waterproofing: underlayment by roof area, ice & water shield = eave length × protected widthOne roll covers ≈ 195 sq ft. Code in cold regions typically requires the membrane to reach at least 24″ inside the wall line, which is why 3 ft from the eave edge is the standard strip; steep ice-dam country and low slopes run two courses (6 ft). The same membrane is also used in valleys — add a roll if your roof has them.
Footprint should include eaves overhang. Add a waste factor of 10% for a simple gable roof, 15% for hips and valleys. This tool estimates a single rectangular roof plane pair — complex roofs should be measured plane by plane.
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A sloped roof is bigger than the house under it. The calculator multiplies the footprint by a pitch factor — 1.054 for a 4/12 pitch up to 1.414 for 12/12 — to get true roof area, converts to roofing squares (100 sq ft each), then counts shingles at 3 bundles per square plus 10% waste, underlayment rolls, and nail boxes. The waterproofing under the shingles is figured separately, the way a roofer orders it: underlayment covers the whole deck, while the self-adhesive ice & water shield only runs in a strip up from each eave — eave length (both sides of a gable roof) times the protected width you choose, divided by about 195 sq ft per roll. Ridge cap bundles (about 33 linear ft per bundle) and drip edge for every roof edge round out the list.
Exactly 100 sq ft of roof area. Shingles, underlayment and labor are all priced by the square, so it is the unit every roofing quote uses.
Pitch is rise over a 12-inch run: a roof that climbs 6 inches over 12 inches of horizontal run is 6/12. Measure from a gable end or with a level in the attic.
It is a strip, not a full-deck layer: multiply the total eave length (both eaves on a gable roof) by how far up the roof the membrane runs — 3 ft is the standard single course, 6 ft (two courses) in heavy ice-dam areas — and divide by about 195 sq ft per roll. The calculator figures it from the footprint and your selection. Valleys get the same membrane; add a roll for each long valley.
No — this counts new materials only. Tear-off, disposal, flashing and ventilation appear as separate lines on a real roofing quote.
Deck boards are laid side by side, so the count comes from the deck width divided by board width plus the gap — not from area alone. Joists, footings and screws follow from the layout.
Method: Layout · boards = width ÷ (board + gap); joists at 16″ on centerAssumes a 1/8″ gap between boards, joists at 16″ on center, and footings spaced about 8 ft apart in two rows, each taking roughly three 80 lb bags of concrete. Stairs, railings and skirting are not included.
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Deck boards run side by side, so the count comes from geometry, not area: deck width divided by board width plus a 1/8 in gap gives the number of boards, each as long as the deck. Joists follow at 16 in on center, footings are spaced about 8 ft apart in two rows with roughly three 80 lb bags of concrete each, and screws are counted at two per board-to-joist crossing.
About 1/8 inch for composite and pressure-treated boards (a standard deck screw or an 8d nail is the classic spacer). The calculator builds this gap into the board count.
16 inches on center is standard for 5/4 and 2x decking laid perpendicular; drop to 12 inches for diagonal layouts or most composite brands.
No — they are separate structures with their own counts. The Stair Calculator on this site handles the steps.
A fence is a linear project: everything scales with total length. Posts come from the spacing, pickets from their width plus the gap, rails from the number of sections.
Method: Linear · posts = length ÷ spacing + 1; pickets = length ÷ (width + gap)Assumes 5.5″-wide pickets with a 1/2″ gap, and two 80 lb bags of concrete per post. Gates need their own posts and hardware — add them separately. Always check property lines and local fence codes before you dig.
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A fence is priced by the linear foot, and everything scales with length: posts are the number of sections (length / spacing) plus one, each set in two bags of concrete; pickets are the length divided by picket width plus gap (5.5 in + 0.5 in), plus 5% spares; rails are two or three per section depending on fence height.
A common rule is one-third of the post in the ground — about 2 ft for a 6 ft fence — and below the frost line in cold climates. Check local code.
Yes — in the U.S., call 811 a few days before digging. It is free, and hitting a buried utility is dangerous and expensive.
No. A gate needs its own heavier posts, hinges and latch, and removes a few pickets. Plan gates separately.
Sizing heating and cooling is a load calculation: floor area, ceiling height and your climate zone set the BTU you need. (Insulating the space? That has its own calculator — see Insulation.)
Method: Load · area × climate factor × (ceiling ÷ 8); 12,000 BTU = 1 ton of ACThis is a first-pass sizing estimate. A proper Manual J load calculation also weighs windows, sun exposure, insulation levels and duct losses — have an HVAC contractor run one before buying equipment. Oversized AC cools fast but leaves the air humid.
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Heating and cooling size is a load estimate: floor area times a climate factor (20 BTU per sq ft in cool regions up to 35 in hot ones), corrected for ceiling height against a standard 8 ft. The total in BTU per hour converts to AC tons at 12,000 BTU per ton, and to the nearest standard equipment sizes so you can recognize oversizing when a quote includes it.
No — it is a first-pass estimate. A Manual J also weighs windows, orientation, insulation and duct losses, and a contractor should run one before equipment is purchased.
An oversized unit cools the air to the setpoint quickly, then shuts off before removing humidity — the room feels cold and clammy, and the equipment wears out faster from short cycles.
12,000 BTU per hour. A '2-ton' air conditioner moves about 24,000 BTU per hour.
Stairs are geometry with a comfort rule: divide the total rise into equal risers, multiply the treads out into a run, and check that 2 × riser + tread lands between 24″ and 26″ — the range that feels natural to walk.
Method: Rise & run · risers = total rise ÷ 7.5″; stringer = √(rise² + run²)U.S. residential code (IRC) generally caps riser height at 7¾″ and requires at least 10″ of tread depth — this tool flags it if your numbers fall outside. Always confirm against your local code before cutting stringers.
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Stair math starts from the total rise — floor to finished floor. The calculator divides it by your target riser height (7.5 in is typical) and rounds to a whole number of risers, so every step is identical; the actual riser height is then exact. Treads are one fewer than risers, total run is treads times tread depth, the stringer length is the hypotenuse, and the comfort check 2 × riser + tread should land between 24 and 26 inches.
Under the U.S. IRC, residential risers are generally capped at 7 3/4 in and treads must be at least 10 in deep. The calculator flags results outside those limits — always confirm with your local code.
Twice the riser height plus the tread depth should total 24–26 inches — the range matching a natural walking stride. Stairs outside it feel cramped or exhausting.
From the surface of the lower finished floor to the surface of the upper finished floor — including flooring thickness at both levels, not subfloor to subfloor.
Wallpaper is bought by the roll, and the pattern repeat decides how much of each roll is actually usable — every strip has to start at the same point in the pattern, so bigger repeats waste more.
Method: Pattern repeat · wall area ÷ roll coverage × repeat allowanceBuy every roll from the same dye lot — the lot number is printed on the label, and shades shift slightly between lots. Keep one spare roll for repairs.
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Wallpaper math runs on two numbers: net wall area (perimeter × height, minus doors and windows) and usable coverage per roll. The pattern repeat then decides the allowance — every strip must start at the same point in the pattern, so the calculator multiplies by 1.10 for no repeat up to 1.30 for a 24-inch repeat — before dividing by roll coverage and rounding up to whole rolls.
The vertical distance before the pattern starts again. Each new strip must be cut so the pattern lines up, and the offcut between repeats is waste — bigger repeat, more waste.
Color shifts slightly between print runs. Rolls from different lots can show a visible shade change at the seam, so buy all rolls from one lot.
A U.S. double roll (about 33 ft long) yields roughly three full strips for an 8–9 ft wall — fewer when a large repeat forces longer cuts.
Bathrooms are the most expensive rooms per square foot in the house: plumbing, waterproofing, tile and fixtures are packed into a small area. Small rooms cost more per sq ft, not less.
Method: Fixture method · $/sq ft by room type × area × tier × scope × regionPartner-store links for the exact items counted above — the bags, rolls and boxes in your result — will appear in this spot once our retailer accounts are live. Until then, copy your result and take the list to any supplier: every count on this page is store-neutral. How partner links work is set out in the affiliate disclosure.
Bathroom pricing starts from a per-square-foot base that depends on the room type — $520 for a powder room, $400 for a standard full bath, $450 for a primary bath — because small bathrooms concentrate plumbing and fixtures into fewer feet. Tier, scope (a surface refresh costs roughly half of a full remodel; moving plumbing adds about 30%) and regional cost then adjust the base, and the midpoint is split into labor, fixtures, tile, plumbing/electrical and other.
The expensive parts — a plumber's visit, a toilet, a vanity, waterproofing — barely shrink with room size, so their cost is divided by very few square feet.
Keep the layout. Moving a toilet or shower drain is the single most expensive scope change; refreshing within the existing layout typically costs about half of a gut remodel.
No. Rotten subfloor or framing found after demolition is the classic bathroom surprise — one reason the range runs wider than other rooms.
In a kitchen, cabinets are the money — typically a third of the whole budget — followed by labor and appliances. This estimator breaks the total down in that order so you can see where a quote is heavy.
Method: Cabinet method · $/sq ft baseline × area × scope × region, split by categoryThe fastest way to cut a kitchen budget is the cabinet line: stock or semi-custom cabinets instead of full custom typically save 30–50% on that category alone.
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Kitchen estimates on this site start from a per-square-foot baseline by ambition — $140 economy, $250 mid-range, $450 high-end — adjusted for scope (a cosmetic refresh runs about 55% of a full remodel; moving plumbing or gas adds about 30%) and region. The total is then split the way real kitchen budgets fall: cabinets about 34%, labor 20%, appliances 16%, countertops 11%, flooring 7%, and the rest to lighting, plumbing and electrical.
Cabinets combine materials, precision manufacturing and installation labor in one item. Stock or semi-custom instead of full custom typically saves 30–50% on this category alone.
Moving the sink, range or gas line. Keeping appliances and plumbing where they are is the largest single saving in a kitchen remodel.
Yes, as their own line — about 16% of a mid-range budget. Professional-grade ranges and built-in refrigeration can push that share much higher.
For driveways, paths and drainage beds. Gravel is sold by the ton, not by volume — so after the depth calculation, the weight conversion by stone type is the step that decides your order.
Method: Weight volume · area × depth ÷ 27 = cu yd × density = tonsOrder about 10% over the calculated tonnage: stone settles, spreads into the subgrade, and loads are weighed, not measured. Depths here are compacted depths.
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Gravel is sold by weight, so this calculator adds the step most people miss: after area × depth gives cubic yards, the volume is multiplied by the stone's density — about 1.35 tons per cu yd for pea gravel, 1.40 for crushed stone, up to 1.50 for river rock — and 10% is added for settling and spread, giving the tonnage to actually order.
It depends on the stone: roughly 1.35–1.50 tons per cubic yard for the landscape stones in this calculator. That range is exactly why the stone type is an input, not a constant.
Stone settles into the subgrade and spreads at the edges, and loads are sold by weighed tons. Running a half-ton short costs a second delivery fee.
For paths and driveways, yes — landscape fabric keeps stone from migrating into the soil, which is where most of the 'disappearing gravel' goes.
Insulation is rated by R-value — resistance to heat flow. The higher the target R, the fewer square feet each bag or pack covers, so the bag count grows faster than the area.
Method: R-value · area ÷ coverage per bag at the target R-valueCoverage figures are typical manufacturer chart values and vary by brand and installed density — the chart printed on the bag governs. Attic targets follow U.S. DOE guidance by climate zone.
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Insulation performance is its R-value — resistance to heat flow — and coverage per bag falls as R rises, because more material must go into the same square foot. The calculator divides your area by the manufacturer's typical coverage for the product and R-value you select: a bag of blown fiberglass covers about 88 sq ft at R-13 but only about 25 sq ft at R-49.
U.S. DOE guidance runs from about R-30 in the warmest zones to R-49–R-60 in the coldest. Most of the country lands at R-38 or R-49.
Blown-in fills irregular attic spaces and around obstructions without gaps; batts are cleaner for open wall cavities during construction. Coverage consistency matters more than the product itself.
Because R-value is thickness doing the work: hitting R-49 needs roughly twice the material depth of R-25 over every square foot.
Siding is sold by the “square” — 100 sq ft of wall. The count is wall area plus gable triangles, minus doors and windows, plus a waste allowance for cuts.
Method: Squares · (walls + gables − openings) ÷ 100, plus wasteGables are calculated as two triangles on the width ends. Starter strip and perimeter trim run the full perimeter of the house, shown in the results.
Partner-store links for the exact items counted above — the bags, rolls and boxes in your result — will appear in this spot once our retailer accounts are live. Until then, copy your result and take the list to any supplier: every count on this page is store-neutral. How partner links work is set out in the affiliate disclosure.
Siding is sold by the square — 100 sq ft. The calculator builds the area honestly: perimeter walls (perimeter × wall height) plus the two gable triangles (width × peak height), minus the openings you enter, then divides by 100 and adds waste for your material — 10% vinyl, 12% fiber cement, 15% wood — rounding up to the nearest half square, the way siding is actually priced. House wrap (the weather-resistive barrier every siding job needs underneath) is counted from the same net area, at about 900 effective sq ft per 10 × 100 ft roll once laps are allowed for.
One hundred square feet of wall coverage. Material, and usually labor too, is quoted per square.
A gable is a triangle: base (the house width) times peak height, divided by two — and there are two of them, so width × peak height in total.
Corner posts, J-channel around windows and doors, starter strip and soffit. The calculator reports the full perimeter run for starter and trim.
For stucco walls and re-coats — including pebble-dash (washed-stone) finishes, which use exactly the same coat quantities with washed aggregate thrown into the finish coat instead of a trowelled texture. Stucco is built up in coats, so the count runs on coat thickness, not just area.
Method: Coats · area × coat thickness ÷ 0.75 cu ft yield per 80 lb bag; finish coat at ⅛″ ≈ 72 sq ft per bag; lath 18 sq ft per sheetCoverage is volume math, the same way the bag charts work: an 80 lb bag of stucco mix yields about 0.75 cu ft placed, so a ¾″ base coat takes a bag per 12 sq ft and a ⅜″ base a bag per 24 sq ft. All counts include 10% for waste, droppings and hawk loss. Openings are not deducted — on stucco work the reveals and returns usually give that material back.
Partner-store links for the exact items counted above — the bags, rolls and boxes in your result — will appear in this spot once our retailer accounts are live. Until then, copy your result and take the list to any supplier: every count on this page is store-neutral. How partner links work is set out in the affiliate disclosure.
Traditional stucco is three coats: a scratch coat and a brown coat — together about ¾ inch of base — then a thin ⅛ inch finish coat that carries the texture or color. One-coat systems over masonry use a single ⅜ inch base. Because each coat is a thickness of material, the bag count is a volume calculation: wall area × coat thickness, divided by the roughly 0.75 cu ft an 80 lb bag yields. Over wood framing, expanded metal lath goes on first — 27″ × 96″ sheets at 18 sq ft each — and that is counted too. Pebble-dash and washed-stone finishes change only what is thrown into the finish coat, not the quantities.
An 80 lb bag yields about 0.75 cu ft of placed stucco. That is roughly 24 sq ft at a ⅜ in coat, 12 sq ft at ¾ in, and about 72 sq ft for the thin ⅛ in finish coat — which is why base coats dominate the bag count.
Pebble-dash (also called roughcast, or washed-stone finish) throws small washed pebbles or coarse aggregate into the wet finish coat instead of trowelling a texture. The coat quantities are the same as any finish coat — the difference is a bag of washed aggregate per roughly 100 sq ft of finish, not more stucco mix.
Over wood framing, sheathing or foam — anything the stucco cannot key into directly — three-coat work is applied over expanded metal lath. Over clean concrete, block or brick, stucco can bond directly and lath is skipped.
For veneer walls, garden walls and chimneys. Brick is a unit count: the brick size sets how many bricks cover a square foot (with a standard ⅜″ mortar joint), and mortar follows per hundred bricks.
Method: Unit count · wall area × bricks per sq ft + 10% waste; mortar ≈ 1 bag per 100 bricksCounts are for a single-wythe wall (one brick thick). A double-wythe structural wall needs twice the bricks. Mortar estimate uses 80 lb bags of premixed mortar.
Partner-store links for the exact items counted above — the bags, rolls and boxes in your result — will appear in this spot once our retailer accounts are live. Until then, copy your result and take the list to any supplier: every count on this page is store-neutral. How partner links work is set out in the affiliate disclosure.
Brick is a unit count driven by face size. With a standard 3/8 in mortar joint, a modular brick covers enough wall that you need about 6.55 bricks per sq ft; larger formats like king bricks need only about 4.6. The calculator multiplies wall area by the rate for your brick, adds 10% for cuts and breakage, and figures mortar at roughly one 80 lb bag per 100 bricks.
Because the count is wall area divided by one brick's face — a king brick's face is about 40% larger than a modular's, so you need about 30% fewer of them, and fewer mortar joints too.
Roughly one 80 lb bag of premixed mortar per 100 modular bricks at 3/8 in joints. Thicker joints or larger bricks shift it — treat it as a planning figure.
One brick thick — a veneer or garden wall. A structural double-wythe wall needs twice the bricks this calculator reports.
For foundation, retaining and partition walls in CMU block. Like brick, it is a unit count from the block's face size — a standard 8×16 face needs exactly 1.125 blocks per sq ft — with mortar figured per hundred blocks.
Method: Unit count · wall area × blocks per sq ft + waste; mortar ≈ 3 bags per 100 blocksAdd half blocks and lintel blocks separately for openings and top courses. Walls that need grouted, reinforced cells will also need grout and rebar — ask the Cubic Yard calculator for the grout volume once cell spacing is set.
Partner-store links for the exact items counted above — the bags, rolls and boxes in your result — will appear in this spot once our retailer accounts are live. Until then, copy your result and take the list to any supplier: every count on this page is store-neutral. How partner links work is set out in the affiliate disclosure.
Concrete block (CMU) is counted from its face: a standard block shows a 16 × 8 in face including the mortar joint — 0.889 sq ft — so a wall needs exactly 1.125 blocks per sq ft. The calculator multiplies by the rate for your block's face size, adds 8% for cuts and breakage, and figures mortar at about three 80 lb bags per 100 blocks, plus the course count from the face height.
A standard block plus its mortar joint covers 16 by 8 inches — 128 sq in, or 0.889 sq ft. One divided by 0.889 is 1.125 blocks for every square foot of wall.
No. Mortar for the joints is included; grout for filling reinforced cells and the rebar itself depend on the structural design and are figured separately.
A standard 8×8×16 block weighs about 38 lb, so even a modest wall runs into thousands of pounds — plan on delivery, not pickup trips.
The starting point for almost every other calculator on this page: the true area of a floor, yard, wall or plot — for rectangles, triangles and circles, with the conversions estimators actually use.
Method: Geometry · rectangle L × W · triangle ½ × base × height · circle π × r²For an L-shaped room, split it into two rectangles, calculate each, and add them — every material calculator on this site takes the total.
Partner-store links for the exact items counted above — the bags, rolls and boxes in your result — will appear in this spot once our retailer accounts are live. Until then, copy your result and take the list to any supplier: every count on this page is store-neutral. How partner links work is set out in the affiliate disclosure.
Area is the first number in almost every renovation calculation, and this tool does it three ways: rectangle (length × width), triangle (half the base × height — for gables, garden corners and angled lots), and circle (π × radius² — for round patios, pools and planters). Results are converted to square yards, square meters and acres, and can be priced at any per-square-foot rate.
Split it into two rectangles, calculate each, and add them. Every material calculator on this site accepts the summed total.
Divide by 9. Carpet, sod and landscape fabric are sold by the square yard, most other materials by the square foot.
For flooring, paint and tile, inside room dimensions. For siding and roofing, outside wall dimensions. The calculator for each material explains which it expects.
Bulk materials — soil, mulch, gravel, concrete — are ordered in cubic yards, but projects are measured in feet and inches. This converts a box or a cylinder (a post hole, a planter, a silo base) into order quantities.
Method: Bulk volume · L × W × depth (or π r² × depth) ÷ 27 = cu ydOne cubic yard is 27 cu ft — roughly a 3 ft cube. Loose materials settle: for soil and mulch, ordering 10% over the calculated volume is standard practice.
Partner-store links for the exact items counted above — the bags, rolls and boxes in your result — will appear in this spot once our retailer accounts are live. Until then, copy your result and take the list to any supplier: every count on this page is store-neutral. How partner links work is set out in the affiliate disclosure.
Bulk materials are ordered in cubic yards but measured in feet and inches, and this calculator bridges the two: for a box, length × width × depth; for a cylinder — a post hole, planter or round bed — π × radius² × depth. Cubic feet are divided by 27 for cubic yards, and the result is also expressed in 2 cu ft bags and wheelbarrow loads for smaller jobs.
27 — a cube 3 ft on each side. It is the single most useful conversion in bulk-material ordering.
13.5 bags. That is why bags stop making sense much past half a yard for most materials.
About 10% for soil, mulch and gravel: loose materials settle and compact after placement, and a second delivery costs more than the overage.
The complete standard set of construction calculators — the same categories the big calculator sites carry — every one live and free. Click any card to open it.
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Search a question like “how many bags of concrete do I need,” land on the right calculator, and get a number you can trust — with the method shown on every tool.
When product links appear next to a calculator, they are labeled as partner links. If you buy through one, the store may pay AspdinReno a small commission at no extra cost to you. See the affiliate disclosure in the Disclaimer below.
About 45 bags. One 80 lb bag yields ≈ 0.60 cu ft, and a cubic yard is 27 cu ft. Bags are cheaper for small jobs; past roughly 1 cubic yard, a ready-mix truck usually wins — the concrete calculator runs both numbers for your exact dimensions.
Straight lay ≈ 10%, running bond ≈ 12%, diagonal 45° ≈ 15%, herringbone ≈ 20%. In the tile calculator you pick the pattern first and the waste follows — that is what “calculated by method” means, instead of one percentage for everything.
None, if you are setting tile in thinset on a flat slab or backer board — that is the default here, and it is why the tile calculator's standard results show no bed materials. If the floor needs a cement-sand mortar bed (screed) to level it, the defaults follow the published standards: bed thickness 1¼″–2″ per TCNA / ANSI A108, and the ANSI A108.1A standard flat-floor mix of 1:5 cement to sand by volume (1:4 for shower receptors). At the 1¼″ standard thickness, 96 sq ft of bed takes about 3 bags (94 lb) of cement and about 0.41 cu yd (0.55 tons) of sand — change the thickness or mix in the calculator to match your spec. Mixing your own concrete instead? The concrete calculator likewise splits its volume into cement bags, sand and aggregate for the mix ratio you pick.
Yes, in wet areas — tile and grout are water-resistant, not waterproof, so water that reaches the substrate causes the classic moldy, loosening-tile failure. A liquid-applied membrane (two coats, roughly 55 sq ft per gallon at the RedGard data-sheet rate) or a bonded sheet membrane goes down first and turns up the walls: about 6 inches around a bathroom floor, full height inside a shower. The tile calculator counts the membrane for the coverage and turn-up you select; it is off by default because dry rooms — living rooms, bedrooms, backsplashes — do not need it.
Because the right tile count can still mean the wrong hauling plan. Tile runs about 2.5–5 lb per sq ft (porcelain typically 3–6), plus 0.5–1.5 lb per sq ft of thinset and grout. The calculator reports total tile weight, weight per box, total weight to carry, and the finished floor load per sq ft — the numbers that matter for upstairs rooms, older floors and delivery.
Concrete is poured as one solid body, so its volume really is L × W × H. Tile is assembled piece by piece: tile size, grout joints, laying pattern and cuts all change the count, and the material and thickness set the weight. Each material has its own math, and the tools follow the installation method.
Every price field has an editable default based on typical U.S. averages. Prices vary by store and region — type in your local store's price and every result updates instantly.
They are careful estimates built on standard industry formulas, and they are a strong starting point for buying materials and checking quotes. They are not a substitute for a contractor's on-site measurement or your local building code — please read the Disclaimer below before starting work.
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Review it below, then tap “Send by email” — your email app opens with everything filled in. Sending it completes your request; AspdinReno will forward it to matching contractors, who contact you directly.
Last updated: November 4, 2026. Please read this page before using the calculators for a real project.
AspdinReno may earn a commission when you buy through product links on this site (for example, links to major home-improvement retailers), at no additional cost to you. Links that can earn a commission are identified as partner or sponsored links where they appear, in line with U.S. Federal Trade Commission (FTC) guidance. Commissions never change a calculator's math or results.
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Last updated: November 4, 2026. By using AspdinReno you agree to these terms.
Last updated: November 4, 2026.
Every calculator on this site runs entirely in your browser. The dimensions, prices and options you enter are never transmitted to or stored on our servers, and results exist only on your screen until you choose to copy them.
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AspdinReno is a free calculator library for homeowners, named for Joseph Aspdin, the Leeds bricklayer who patented Portland cement in 1824 and quietly made modern renovation possible. The site is built on a simple conviction from a decade of on-site renovation work: most expensive renovation mistakes are arithmetic mistakes — the wrong number of bags, boxes, rolls or tons — and each material has its own correct way of being counted.
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